Memories of Mexico

Mexico is one of my favourite countries. I have visited three times and on each occasion have found different things to surprise and delight. It is a country of great contrasts. Mexico City, the huge, teeming metropolis is very different to the smaller provincial cities but each have their own charm and attraction. Everywhere it is possible to see beautiful colonial style architecture, magnificent murals, indigenous culture and extremely friendly and welcoming people. There is a strong contrast between the ancient and the modern and it is not unusual to find outstanding contemporary architecture adjacent to archaeological sites dating from pre-Colombian times. These two elements are combined every November on Dia de los Muertos  (Day of the Dead) where people maintain the centuries old tradition of visiting the graves of departed relatives and decorating shrines in their homes and public places as well as participating in the huge modern parade in the city centre.

Dia de los Muertos, Mexico City

Detail of a shrine for Dia de los Muertos

Many visitors only spend a few days in Mexico City, but there is much to keep even the most experienced traveller interested and busy for a week or more in this huge capital that has some of the finest art galleries and museums in the world. These include the Museo Nacional de Antropologia,  Case Azul (the Frida Kahlo House), the Museo de Arte Popular and the fabulous Fernando Romero designed ultra-modern Museo Soumaya. But art lovers do not need to visit galleries or museums in this city in order to appreciate the works of great artists. The murals of  Diego Rivera, Jose Clement Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros and many other great artists can be seen in many public buildings and spaces. The Palacio de Bellas Artes in the city centre is the major venue for ballet, folk dance performance and classical concerts as well as displaying the work of most of Mexico's important 20th century artists. The building itself has a wonderful art deco interior, inside an imposing belle époque facade.

Palacio de Bellas Artes, Mexico City

Museo Soumaya, Mexico City 

Detail of mural by Diego Rivera, Palacio Nacional, Mexico City 

The city is huge and in addition to the attractions of the Centro Historico, it has many fascinating neighbourhoods. One of my favourites is La Condesa which has a large collection of art deco and modernist architecture dating from the 1930's including a couple of early examples of the work of the Luis Barragan. His work was extremely influential and Barragan is considered to be one of Latin America's most important architects. It is possible to visit his former home - Case Barragan - and to enjoy a guided tour as part of the price of entry. Condesa also has many cafes and restaurants and is a great place for strolling, admiring the art deco and stopping off for coffee, cake and other treats.

Roof terrace, Casa Barragan, Mexico City

Art deco doorway, La Condesa, Mexico City

The Coyoacan neighbourhood is different again and has a distinctly village-like feel to it. As well as being home to Casa Azul there is a handicraft market and dancing in the main square at weekends but my favourite activity here is to stroll along the quieter lanes away from the main square, visiting the old churches and independent shops and making the occasional stop for coffee (and quesadillas!). Regular readers know of my passion for coffee and cake. In Mexico City I prefer churros and hot chocolate at the wonderful El Moro, which has provided a 24 hours service ever since opening in 1935. Fantastic. 

Museum of the Baroque, Puebla

View across the city, Puebla

Art Deco building, Puebla

Puebla is Mexico's fourth largest city with a population of almost three million. It is easily reached by car from the capital and  you can see the highlights of the Centro Historico in a day but to get the most from the city a stay of one or two nights is preferable. As well as enjoying the Centro Historico with its Cathedral, baroque churches, hidden courtyards, cafes and artisans' shops, staying overnight will allow plenty of time to visit the new Museum of the Baroque. Just outside the city, it opened last year and houses an amazing collection of baroque items bringing home just how important the style has been to the history of Mexican design. The building is spectacular. Designed by Japanese architect Toyo Ito, its brilliant white exterior contrasts with the deep blue Mexican sky and the greenery of the surrounding park land.

Puebla is the major centre for the manufacture of Talavera ceramics. The Uriarte Gallery, just a short walk from the main square is the best place to see and buy Talavera items as well as to see the manufacturing process. Of course, it is not cheap to buy things there and if you can only afford to look and still want some Puebla ceramics to take home there are many smaller shops selling good but cheaper items in bright colours and a range of designs. Puebla also has a few interesting art deco buildings and great churros at the Antigua Churreria de Catedral. What's not to like?

Quiet courtyard, Puebla

Cafe La California, Puebla

Monte Alban, Oaxaca

Oaxaca City is a short flight from Mexico City but can also be reached by car with an overnight stop at Puebla or another town en route. It has a more relaxed atmosphere than the two cities already mentioned and is full of brightly coloured colonial buildings. The city has several markets including Mercado Benito Juarez which offers flowers, fruit, handicrafts and household goods as well as unusual snacks including flying ants, grasshoppers and red worms! Oaxaca is famous for its huge range of different coloured mezcal - a distilled alcoholic beverage made from agave. There is also a large craft market, the Mercado de Artesanias which sells clothes for adults and children, household items and locally produced textiles.

Monte Alban, a major pre-Colombian architectural site is located just 9 kilometres away from the city. It is believed to have been founded in 500 BCE by the Zapotec people. The site included several temples, elite residences and ball courts. Evidence of all of these can be seen today whilst there are also spectacular views from the site due to its mountain top location. The Zapotec are believed to have had a calendar in addition to their own writing system. Monte Alban includes a museum with models of the structures and many precious artefacts recovered during excavations.

Back in the city, the Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman and the accompanying monasteries were built over 200 years commencing in 1575. It houses a superb museum of Oaxacan culture with great views of the surrounding mountains. The church overlooks a large plaza where artisans sell their work and where there are occasional musical performances. There are many good restaurants, cafes and chocolaterias including Casa Oaxaca, one of my favourite hotels which also has a superb courtyard restaurant with a kitchen under the direction of TV chef Alejandro Ruiz.

Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman, Oaxaca

Calle Alcalá, Oaxaca

Mexico is full of surprises. It has a long and fascinating history and there is evidence of this everywhere. It is one of the world's most colourful countries with a long tradition of producing amazing works of art in a unique style.  I have been fortunate to travel extensively in different parts of the world but Mexico has given me some of my most memorable times and experiences. I have been assisted in visiting the cities mentioned here and also many other places in Mexico by my good friend, Alex Ramirez Cruz. Alex is also a superb travel guide. He is very experienced, extremely knowledgeable, speaks perfect English and has enhanced each of my visits to Mexico with help and suggestions for places to visit, sleep and eat. He can be contacted by emailing alextourguide@hotmail.com

You might also like Calle Justo Sierra 71 - a synagogue comes back to life or Picture Post 36 - A riot of colour, Santa Maria Tonatzintla and San Francisco Acatapec.

More Mexican Art Deco

I first visited Mexico in 2013. I wanted to see the art of Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Rufino Tamayo  and all of the other great Mexican artists. I wanted to see the pyramids at Teotihuacan and the other sites that preceded the colonial period. And I also wanted to visit some of the wonderful Mexican art deco buildings that I had seen on the Art Deco Mex Facebook page. I was not disappointed, in fact I was inspired to return to see more of this beautiful, colourful, exciting country and recently visited for the third time in four years.

On my two previous visits, I spent a lot of time in the La Condesa neighbourhood, admiring the spectacular collection of art deco buildings in Avenida Amsterdam, Avenida Mexico and the surrounding streets. This time, thanks again to my good friend Eduardo of Art Deco Mex, I was able to see some of the many deco buildings in Colonia Roma, adjacent to La Condesa, as well as discovering more treasures in the Centro Historico and in the cities of Puebla and Oaxaca.

Edificio Anahuac

Colonia Roma was established at the beginning of the twentieth century and has a more European feel than other parts of the city due to its Parisian style streets and classicist buildings. During the 1950's the Beat writers including Jack Kerouac and William S Burroughs spent time here and today the area remains a bohemian enclave where many writers and artists live. Colonia Roma also has some wonderful art deco buildings including the stunning Edificio Anahuac at 109 Queretaro. The stand-out external feature is the dramatic entrance with its wavy green tiled external lobby, ornate glazed door and stylised numbering above the entrance. 

We were lucky enough to be able to see inside the lobby and one of the flats in the building as one of the residents was standing on one of the street facing balconies when we arrived and Eduardo charmed her into letting us in! The communal area includes a now disused name board to show who lived in each apartment, a brightly coloured staircase with hints of California style and a small lodge once used by a concierge. The apartment was very small and had lost most of its original features but it was possible to imagine how stylish the building once was and the current resident was enthusiastic about art deco and the building's history. Edificio Anahuac was constructed in 1932 to the designs of Francisco J. Serrano, a prolific architect with several other buildings around the city.

Apartment building on Colima

Edifico Rio de Janeiro

Many of Mexico City's art deco buildings are undocumented in that the details of the architect and the year of construction are often not known. We were able to sneak a look inside one such building on Colima. Behind a fairly austere exterior, albeit one with some rather nice corner balconies, we discovered a beautiful staircase, the bannister of which has some splendid art deco motifs. Eduardo told me that there are many such buildings right across the city and that he regularly discovers more when out walking. I think a book is in order! 

Plaza Rio de Janeiro is a short walk from Colima and is home to one of the city's most interesting buildings. Designed by R.A. Pigeon and built in 1908 in the art nouveau style, the interior, including the doors was given an art deco remodeling in 1930 under the direction of our friend Francisco Serrano. The lobby and the atrium around which the flats are arranged is stunning with gorgeous wood panelling, a fountain, spectacular detailing on the staircase and stylized lettering on the elevator door. The main door is pure art deco with decorative lines, waves and discs. After dark the lobby is illuminated giving fantastic views of the interior from the tiled floor to that lovely fountain. Again, Eduardo managed to gain entrance to the lobby for us.

Edifico Rio de Janeiro

Edifico Rio de Janeiro

There is a bit of a story attached to Edificio de Rio de Janeiro. Widely known as "the witch's house" because of the gables which resemble a witch's hat, a previous resident, one Barbara Guerrero was known as a witch and referred to as La Pachita. Prominent people would consult her for advice which she would give without charge.

Art Deco cinemas can be found all over the world and Mexico is no exception. During my recent visit I was able to admire a number of cinema buildings, both in Mexico City and in Puebla. Several of the cinemas are now used for other purposes, mainly shopping centres but at least one of those I visited is still used for theatrical performances. 

The Centro Historic in Mexico City has many fine art deco buildings, including the Orfeon Theatre at Luis Moya 40. I came across this building quite by chance after having visited the wonderful Museum of Popular Art at Revillagigedo 11, itself a great art deco building. Built in 1938, it was designed by the American architects, Drew and John Eberson. It was originally intended that the theatre should seat up to 6,000 people, in 1945 it had a capacity of 4,628. In 1996, after many years of neglect, it was given a full restoration part funded by the Disney Corporation. Today it seats just under 3,000.

Teatro Orfeon

Teatro Coliseo

The former Coliseo Cinema in Puebla was another find. Built in about 1940 it is now a department store but the exterior is still intact and what an exterior it is, covered in chevrons, portholes, vertical windows and zig-zags. Puebla is renowned for its Baroque style architecture and I did not expect to come across art deco here. The Coliseo was not the only example of the style that I found as I also came across a neglected but still elegant apartment block in Avenida 4 Poniente, close to the famous Uriate Talavera ceramics shop and factory. I have been unable to find any details of the architect or date of construction. And whilst on the subject of unexpected art deco, I also came upon a rather nice building in Oaxaca with clear deco influences including "rule of three decorative details on the facade and on the corner summits. Eduardo once said of art deco in Mexico that "you can find it everywhere". He was right.

Apartment block, Puebla 

Deco influenced commercial building, Oaxaca

Edificio Cosmos

Back to Mexico City. Edificio Cosmos stands on the traffic-filled Eje Central in the Centro Historico.  Cosmos has it all - portholes, elegant balconies, corner windows, fabulous lettering and what appears to be a glazed stairwell. The ground floor is given over to retail and the side street has several cheap food stalls, some of which seem to deposit their rubbish beside the Cosmos. Unfortunately the building is in need of some loving care. Again, no details of the architect or date of construction.

Polanco is one of the most affluent neighborhoods in Mexico City. As well as glitzy shops and fancy restaurants, Polanco plays host to the modern architectural gems - the Soumaya and Jumex museums. It is also home to Pasaje Polanco, a California style development with both commercial and residential buildings. Another one of Serrano's projects, it was completed in 1938. The internal part of the Pasaje includes some first floor residential units which with their rounded walkways and tropical planting reminded me a little of the Tiong Bahru district of Singapore. I only managed to take one photograph here before a very determined security guard told me I couldn't take any more. Shame. It's not the best picture but it gives you a hint of the grandeur.

Pasaje Polanco

There are art deco buildings to be found in most parts of Mexico City and even somewhat unexpectedly in other parts of the country too. One of the things I most enjoy about the city is strolling the streets and spotting some of the many deco details on the facades, doors and upper levels of buildings. Many of them contain references to the pre-colonial period, whilst others have wonderful lettering and numbering or classic deco motifs. Let's finish with a little indulgence and some lovely deco doorways and details from Mexico City!

You might also like Mexico City art deco - you can find it everywhere. or Picture Post 35 - Mexico City - the abandoned Fronton or Journey Mexico's recent post on Mexican design (please note that this is an external blog) 

Picture Post 58 - Puebla's stunning new museum of baroque

Puebla is home to almost 6 million people. It has a long history, was the site of an important victory against French forces in 1862, produces the world famous Talavera tiles and is home to one of the largest Volkswagen factories in the world. The city also has a large collection of baroque style churches and other buildings and recently acquired a stunning new museum designed by Japanese architect, Toyo Ito. I was able to visit the museum during my recent visit to Mexico.

The Museo International del Barroco opened earlier this year. It's collections include paintings, furniture, ceramics, clothing and religious objects as well as partial reconstructions of baroque churches and even a theatre! Extensive use of inter-active technology is made in line with current developments in displaying and promoting heritage collections. I liked this approach to presentation which ensures appeal for both traditional museum visitors and newer, younger audiences. At the time of my visit there was also a superb temporary exhibition of baroque items drawn from international collections in Belgium, Spain, Austria and even Liechtenstein.

As much as I enjoyed the exhibitions, the main reason for my visit was to admire Toyo Ito's spectacular architecture. A series of brilliant white folds, curves and cylinders, the museum is set in a brand new eco-park on the outskirts of the city. The contrast with the bright blue Mexican sky adds drama to the experience of a visit and is a bit of a show stopper especially on a first visit!

The building's design seeks to incorporate baroque principles. This is demonstrated through the fluidity of the design with the curved walls avoiding the rigidity of many museum buildings. The use of light to draw visitors from one space to another is also a reference to baroque principles with light symbolising the victory of good over darkness whilst locating the museum within the new park emphasises links with nature. Issues of environment and sustainability were also considered in the design and extensive use is made of external air in order to reduce the building's energy consumption - and also costs.

In addition to the exhibition spaces, there is a central patio and pool, open to the public and accessible from several points within the building. Hidden from the exterior, it provides yet another stunning visual experience, again with that beautiful contrast between the white of the structure and the blue sky. and water. The exhibitions are set out on the ground floor where there is also a gift shop offering a range of baroque related books and other items as well as some regional craft products. The upper level is devoted to research and education and is accessed by a dramatic white staircase immediately visible on entering the lobby. There is also a cafe on the first floor.

I know from many years of working in the cultural sector that providing wonderful buildings to show off even the most wonderful of collections or services can fail if the human element is neglected. The Museo International del Barroso addresses this fundamental concern through its wonderful, friendly and knowledgeable staff who welcome visitors not only on their arrival but also in each of the galleries. The staff have an obvious pride in their building and exhibitions and are keen to make sure people get the most from their visit. It was also good to see the eco-park being taken care of with a team of workers looking after things - and also wishing "buenos dias" to passers-by. I will certainly visit again.

Picture post 38 - Cholula, a church on top of a pyramid

Cholula is a city of over 100,000 people on the road from Mexico City to Puebla. It is known for its many churches and large student population, but is most visited due to the presence of one of the largest pre-colonial sites in the country and the church that the Spaniards built on top of it.

At the time of the Spanish conquest, Cholula was a major city with 400 temples, an important shrine to the god Quetzalcoatl and a reputation for the finest pottery in the country. The local people, allied to the Aztecs planned to ambush Cortes and his men on their way to the city of Tenochitlan. Unfortunately, the Spaniards were tipped off by the Tlaxcalans. The Cholulans paid a terrible price with as many as 6,000 being massacred including almost all of the local leadership and the city was pillaged by the Tlaxcalans. Cortes went on to destroy many temples which resulted in the 39 churches currently found in Cholula - rather than the 365 of legend.

Despite the carnage, it is still possible to see significant remains from the pre-colonial period. The Piramide Tepanapa in the Zona Arqueologica is the main site and the location of one of the largest pyramids ever built. More accurately, it is the site of a number of pyramids one built on top of another over time. From a distance the site appears to be a grass covered mound with the yellow church domes rising above. But this hides the earlier history and it is possible to enter some of the 8 kilometres of tunnels within the pyramid and to view the results of their work as well as some partially restored elements uncovered by archaeologists. 

The Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios sits on top of the pyramid. It is accessed by climbing a steep, winding track from the pyramid's base, populated by vendors selling wooden toys, fruits, chillies  and other local produce. I stopped to look at what was on offer and bought a small wooden flute to bring home as a memento. The elderly woman vendor was amused that she couldn't tempt me to buy any of the fiery looking chillies she offered. Even the thought of them makes me sweat! The last stretch to the summit ends with a set of very steep steps, which once negotiated bring a full view of the church's white and yellow facade.

The climb is worth the effort. As well as being able to see inside the church, there are stunning views across the city with its many churches and clear site of the volcano Popocatapetl. Its a climb that gets made by pilgrims as well as tourists due to the presence of an image of the Virgin of the Remedies, a variation on the Virgin Mary dedicated specifically to the needs of the poor. Its also possible to visit some stunningly decorate churches in the nearby villages of Tonatzintla and Acatapec. You can see pictures and read about them here. 

Picture post 36 - A riot of colour, Santa Maria Tonatzintla and San Francisco Acatapec

Church of Santa Maria Tonatzintla

The journey from Mexico City to Puebla takes a couple of hours dependant on traffic. However, there are many delights en route that tempt travellers to lengthen the journey by enjoying short stops to look at the volcanoes Popocatapetl and Iztaccihuatl (at least on a clear day) and the historic city of Cholula, which will be the subject of another post. There are also two stunningly beautiful churches in small settlements near to Cholula and I was lucky enough to be able to visit them on my recent Mexico trip.

Tonatzintla is a small, very ordinary village but its pride and joy is the Church of Santa Maria of Tonatzintla in the main square. Accessed through a yellow painted archway and across a paved patio, the talavera and brick facade is a glorious red with blue, yellow and white details and naive figures sheltered in a series of small recesses. I love the crisp, clean combination of colours and the way they fit perfectly with the bright Mexican light. 

Archway, Santa Maria Tonatzintla

Work began on the church in the 16th century and the style is described as folk baroque, mixing elements of Christianity with indigenous beliefs and practices. Interestingly, even the name of the church (and the village) reflects this. Tonanzin was a goddess of fertility popular amongst the indigenous Nahua speaking peoples, whilst the village name means "place of our little mother". This is mirrored in the choice of Mary for the church's dedication.

The exterior of the church is beautiful but the interior is overwhelming. Over the last several hundred years, craftsmen have covered almost every inch of the church with stucco ornament including birds, plants, fruits and indigenous figures interspersed with biblical characters. Everywhere you look there is something different to see and it is hard to know where to look first. It is fascinating to see that many of the figures have the facial features of the original Mexicans rather than the Spanish colonialists, suggesting perhaps that the vast majority of the craftsmen were also indigenous people. This style of decoration is known as churrigueresque and originated in Spain in the late 17th century. Unfortunately photographs are not allowed inside but it is relatively easy to find pictures of the interior on the internet.

Acatapec is another small village just a short distance form Tonatzintla. It is home to the riot of colour that is the church of San Francisco. The baroque exterior is covered in glazed bricks and locally produced talavera tiles in blue, green, yellow, red and white. Set back from a busy main road, it is a complete surprise in a village that is otherwise unremarkable. Built at the end of the 18th century it is a other example of the churrigueresque style of stucco decoration on the internal walls and ceiling with the rear of the main altar being particularly impressive. But for me the facade was the main reason for visiting. The uniquely Mexican combination of bright colours, brilliant sunlight and ceramic beauty is truly spectacular, whilst the main lines, angles, edges, curves and patterns are a photographer's delight. 

Both San Francisco and Santa Maria Tonatzintla are unmissable sites on the road to Puebla or Cholula, but a word of warning. Get there early because both churches attract large numbers of visitors including coach parties and school groups. Its great that so many people want to visit, but these are treats best enjoyed quietly. 

Church of San Francisco, Acatapec

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