A weekend in Antwerp - art nouveau, cup cakes and a touch of Africa

It takes just three hours to get to Antwerp from London on the Eurostar, changing once at Brussels. I made my first ever visit to the city last month and discovered its architectural delights, some great cafes, a street full of antique shops and a fascinating modern museum that tells the story of Antwerp. 

Antwerp has a history as a great port city, with millions of immigrants having passed through on their way to America from Eastern Europe. The MAS  (Museum aan de Stroom) in the old docks area tells the story of the this port city, including the great waves of migrants that flowed through it. It also tells something about those who made Antwerp their home. When I visited there was a small but fascinating exhibition about the city's Chinese community. The building is extremely striking, a red brick tower with stepped brick blocks interspersed with floor to ceiling glazing at each level, affording differing views of the city. The collections include thousands of objects, paintings and photographs that tell the story of Antwerp. I especially enjoyed the "visible storage" gallery where visitors can catch a glimpse of some of the museum's treasures, whilst the other galleries display items under the themes of Display of Power, Metropolis, World Port and Life and Death. There is a good book shop too. The museum opened in 2011, was designed by Dutch architects, Willem Jan Neutelings and Michiel Riedjik and is a major component of the regeneration of this part of Antwerp.

The MAS

Which one is Tin Tin? Exhibit in the MAS

Antwerp has a Jewish community numbering about 15,000. The majority are Orthodox Jews, many working in or connected with the city's diamond industry located close to the Central Station. This community was immortalised in Diamonds, the story of an Orthodox diamond merchant living in the city on the eve of the First World War. His workers compete with each other to gain his favours , his wife suffers from his overbearing personalty, his son is without direction and his daughter is a spendthrift! Written in Yiddish by Esther Kreitman, the less well known sister of Isaac Bashevis Singer, the book was first published by Foyle's in 1944.

The Het Zuid district is home to a stunning synagogue completed in 1893. The Shomrei Hadass Synagogue in Bouwmeesterstraat was designed by architects Ernest Stordiau and Joseph Hertogs. Dominating this side street it is Moorish in style. Suffering bomb damage in the Second World War it was repaired in 1958 and declared a protected monument in 1976. Stordiau was responsible for a number of buildings in the city including a chapel and a number of residential properties in the art nouveau district, Zurenborg.

Shomrei Hadass synagogue, main entrance

No visit to any city is complete for me without the chance to enjoy its collection of art nouveau or art deco architecture. Antwerp offers some great examples of both of these styles. I have already posted about the city's art deco riches here and so will pick out my art nouveau favourites in this post. The majority of Antwerp's art nouveau buildings are in the Zurenborg district, a fifteen minutes walk from the Central Station. A triangle of streets including Cogels-Osylei, Waterloostraat and General van Merlenstraat include over 100 examples of the style and will be the subject of a separate post.

There are many beautiful examples of the nouveau style in those streets but my two favourite nouveau buildings here are in the Het Zuid district. Het Bootje (the boat),  at Schilderstraat 2 takes its name from the corner balcony which is shaped like a ship's prow and is a tribute to the city's seafaring links. Commissioned by wealthy ship builder P. Rouis and built in 1901 it was designed by architect Frans Smet-Verhas. It is a riot of colours, curves, swirls and floral motifs that make it stand out from its neighbours. Today the house is divided into several separate units, including one which is home to the Chilean consulate.

Het Bootje.

It is a short walk from Het Bootje, to Volkstraat 40, where you can see my favourite Antwerp art nouveau building - the former Maison du Peuple (People's House). Built from 1899-1903 and designed by architect Emil van Averbeke it was built for the Socialist party and is now a Steiner School. Flamboyant in the extreme, it has fabulous glazed arches, elaborate ironwork and is topped by carved figures. Most striking of all are the freezes on the facade, showing the heroic labour of agricultural workers. There is a smaller freeze above the tiny side door, the shape of which reminds me of the national romantic architecture of Helsinki and Stockholm. 

Steiner School, detail

Steiner School, side entrance

Another favourite is Mercatorstraat 102-106 in the Jewish Quarter, also designed by van Averbeke. Dating from 1901, it faces the railway viaduct and has lovely yellow brick facades and wrought iron balconies. As with the Steiner School, I was particularly taken with its door, which also resembles the national romantic architecture found in Scandinavia from around 1900. On the day I visited this part of the city, there was heavy rain and Antwerp's Orthodox citizens looked at me with astonishment as I took photographs from underneath my umbrella and from the middle of the road!

Mercatorstraat, 102-106.

Brussels has long been famous for its cartoonists and for its street cartoons decorating the exterior walls of shops and other buildings. Antwerp also has many street cartoons, including a wonderful series of tableaux by Jan van der Veken, painted on to a blank wall at the back of the KBC Bank at Eiermarkt 8. Born in Ghent, van der Veken has been featured on the cover of the New Yorker. His Eiermarkt murals show a series of glamorous urban dwellers with romantic undertones! 

Other highlights of my visit included shopping and cakes! Kloosterstraat is a long street filled with antique shops of varying price and quality, all of them interesting and browsing them is a great way of spending an afternoon in the city. I even picked up a small tin once used to store "electroplated pins". I don't own any electroplated pins - it was the constructivist design on the lid that attracted me! Antwerp also has many bookshops. I loved Erik Tonen's shop at Kloosterstraat 48 which sells both new and antiquarian books and where you can see and buy original copies of the Dutch avant-grade magazine Wendingen that ran in the 1920's and 1930's.

This is a city that loves coffee …and cakes. Clearly it was my duty to sample the local produce. I loved my creme brûlée cupcake and very strong coffee at Momade Cupcakes, a tiny six seater cafe in the historic centre. There are more than 30 kinds of cupcake on offer and the service is extremely friendly. The lady serving when I visited on Sunday morning told me she had studied at the Steiner School mentioned earlier. Coffee and Vinyl is another good place at Volkstraat 45. There are racks and racks of vinyl records for sale at the rear of the shop, with coffee being served in the front area. Nice.

I also found a great place to stay. De Witte Nijl (the White Nile) is an excellent bed and breakfast hotel in the Het Zuid area, just a short walk from Nationalstraat and the main shopping and cultural areas. The owners are extremely friendly, welcoming and knowledgeable about their city. The hotel is furnished in colonial style with many antiques, pictures, maps and other items originating from or paying tribute to the former Belgian Congo. There are two suites which, continuing the African theme, are named after Stanley and Livingstone. I stayed in the Livingstone which was spacious, comfortable and had a great free standing bath. A big breakfast is available too!

Speaking of big breakfasts, I couldn't resist photographing the tiger enjoying his breakfast outside the Antwerp Zoo. The mosaic is one if a pair of panels on the exterior of the zoo which I didn't visit but the
entrance is well worth a look. For more pictures of Antwerp click here.

Mosaic at the entrance to Antwerp Zoo

Coffee and Vinyl

My kind of holiday photo!

You might also like Art Deco in Antwerp

The 500 Hidden Secrets of Antwerp by Derek Blyth is a new indispensable guide book for the weekend visitor.

Art deco in Antwerp

99 Meir, Joseph Selis, 1933

Antwerp is known for its historic centre which dates back to the middle ages, for its connection with Rubens and Flemish painting and for its famous port through which millions of immigrants left Europe seeking a new life in the Americas. Antwerp should also be known for its 20th century architecture, including its rich collection of art deco buildings. 

I recently visited the city for the first time, armed with a google map and tips from an excellent Facebook page called  Art Deco Antwerpen , which is a must for all visitors interested in architecture. This is not a large city and many of the deco highlights are within walking distance of each other. Unfortunately I chose a grey and wet weekend to visit but a warm coat, big scarf, umbrella, camera and regular coffee stops ensured that I thoroughly enjoyed my visit.

Meir, Antwerp's main shopping street, is home to my favourite deco building in the city. 99 Meir is currently home to Italian fashion designer Massimo Dutti's store. Originally a second Meir branch of Maison Tilquin, manufacturers and purveyors of high quality silver cutlery, it was designed by architect Joseph Selis, and completed in 1933. It is a slim, striking building with numerous deco features making it stand out from its larger neighbours. Constructed from reinforced concrete, the facade features slightly rounded windows and a central pillar topped by a flag pole. The pillar divides the floors in half and has examples of the classic "rule of three" displayed at the top and bottom of the pillar as well as on the flagpole. The door has a striking handle resembling two number threes facing each other.

Selis also designed the original interior including the knife shop, counters and cupboards, some of which remain today due to the protected status of the building. Whilst I was in Antwerp, the store was closed, apparently for refurbishment so I was unable to go inside but it was possible to see the counters and lighting from outside. Clearly, I will have to come again! The building has been the Massimo Dutti store since 2003 and underwent extensive refurbishment from 2002-4 under the supervision of the Department of Monuments and Sites.

Doors, 99 Meir, Joseph Selis, 1933

KBC Tower, 35 Schoenmarkt, Jan van Hoenacker, 1932.

Europe's first skyscraper stands at 35 Schoenmarkt,  a short walk from 99 Meir. Built between 1929 and 1932 and originally the Torengebouw van Antwerpen, the KBC Tower stands 87.5 metres tall, second only in the city to the Cathedral of Our Lady. Reflecting the period architecture of Chicago and New York, it was one of Europe's first buildings with a structural carrying frame, also reflecting practice in the USA. The tower dominates the city centre skyline with its deco-featured soaring facade. Unfortunately, many of the original internal features have been lost. The tenth floor tearoom and beer hall were ripped out in the 1970's and the roof terrace cafe was closed. Things could have been worse. In the 1960's there were plans for complete demolition. A "restoration" took place in the 1970's which included removing the apartments on the upper floors and converting them to offices. Today the tower has retail space on the ground floor and offices at all other levels. 

Despite the losses, the facade can still stop visitors in their tracks with window after window, floor after floor and the stylised figures at the lower levels. The central tower is flanked by two wings, one curved, accentuating the height and narrow waist of the tower. It is known to Antwerp's residents as the Boerentoren or farmers' tower, as at the time of building the most important shareholder was a farmers' co-operative. The architect was Jan Van Hoenacker who designed a number of buildings across Belgium including a theatre, bank office and brewery.

Deco figures on the faced of the KBC building

Many of the buildings featured in this post were constructed close to the time of the 1930 Exposition that took place in both Antwerp and Liege. The Antwerp fair concentrated on maritime and colonial themes whilst Liege focused on industry and science. The Exposition also marked the centenary of Belgium as a sovereign state. Few buildings remain from the Exposition but on the outskirts of the city, the Kristus Koningskirk stands in the middle of the residential area of Kiel. The church was built from 1928-30 and was designed by architect Jos Smolderen. During the exposition the church was used to display Flemish art to visitors from around the world. 

The church has elements from a variety of styles but clearly fits into the modernist/ art deco genre with a particularly striking main clock tower and brickwork reminiscent of the Amsterdam School. Smolderen spent time in the Netherlands during the First World War, seeking refuge in Belgium's neutral neighbour. During this time he had contact with Dutch architectural genius H.P. Berlage. There are other examples of the influence of the Amsterdam School amongst the buildings surrounding the church - a school dating from 1934 as well as a number of residential properties. Kiel is another part of Antwerp to visit again.   

Kristus Koningskirk, Kiel, Antwerp. Jos Smolderen, 1930.

Kristus Koningskirk, Kiel, Antwerp. Jos Smolderen, 1930.

Detail of school in the Kiel district, 1934.

Few cities can boast an art deco style church. Antwerp also has an art deco tunnel! The Saint Anna Tunnel is a pedestrian and cycle route under the Scheldt river. The entrance buildings on both sides of the river were designed by Emiel van Averbeke who also completed the early drawings for the KBC tower. These imposing structures are constructed of yellow brick and have partially glazed pillars on each flank. There are decorative canopies above the entrance and at the top of each building.

The interior of the tunnel is charming. Visitors descend a wooden escalator reminiscent of some of the old London Underground stations and then pass through a 572 metres of white tiled walkway. There is also a colourful tiled information panel in the tunnel, giving details of its dimensions and dates of construction. The tunnel was completed in just 22 months and cost the equivalent of one million Euros. Seems like a bargain to me. The grand opening took place on September 10th 1933 with Antwerp Mayor Camille Huysmans officiating and walking through the tunnel, bizarrely followed by 20,000 students!

Detail, entrance Saint. Anna tunnel. Emiel van Averbeke, 1933.

Entrance, Saint Anna tunnel.

Ceramic information panel, Saint Anna tunnel.

Antwerp has many other art deco and modernist buildings to explore and discover. The city is conveniently placed to allow a visit to be combined with Brussels, Amsterdam or even Paris thanks to Eurostar. Below are a few more examples of Antwerp's version of deco.

Retail and office building off Meir

Curved detail of building above

Door to the Tropeninstitut, Nationalstraat

Modern house (I think!) in modernist style in Cogels Osylei.

You might also like Brussels art deco - Uccle and Ixelles
Visit my Facebook page Art Deco and Modernism around the world

Art nouveau, Ethiopian coffee and a fabulous risotto - a bit more Brussels

Lobby ceiling, Generali Building, Rue Baron Horta

Brussels is just two hours by train from London. Well known for beer, chocolate and sea food, this is a city with much more to offer than those and one which is seriously under-rated. It is an architectural treasure house especially for devotees of art nouveau and art deco, is home to some world class museums and makes a mean cup of coffee too! 

The main reason for my recent visit was to see the Henry Van de Velde exhibition at the Cinquantenaire Museum. Van de Velde was one of those multi-talented individuals that abounded in the 1900-1930 period. He was a painter, an architect, designed furniture and textiles and also turned his hand to writing. Not only was he enormously skilled in these areas, he had received no formal training in most of them and was a self-taught architect. Despite that the boy did well and his legacy is on glorious display in the current exhibition which includes his paintings, furniture, architectural drawings and reconstructions of some of the interiors of his various homes. Born in Antwerp in 1863 he worked in Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and Switzerland throughout his long life. The exhibition also features works by his contemporaries including a couple of interior design pieces by Josef Hoffman and some rather wonderful pointilist paintings by Paul Signac.

Van de Velde's early architecture was in the art nouveau style. One of his contemporaries was Paul Cauchie, who designed the art nouveau masterpiece - Maison Cauchie which stands in Rue des Francs, just five minutes away from the Cinquantenaire. Maison Cauchie was built as a private home, which explains the legend Par nous pour nous (by us, for us) on the building's facade. The facade advertises his sgraffito capabilities in addition to his architectural talents. Incidentally, his wife, Carolina Voet was also an accomplished artist. The couple met when studying at the Academie Royale des Beaux Arts in Brussels. The house can be visited once a month - see the website for details.

Facade, Maison Cauchie, Rue des Francs, 1905, Paul Cauchie

Another art nouveau favourite of mine is the Maison de Saint Cyr in Square Ambroix. Built in 1902 and designed by architect Gustave Strauven, this beauty is just four metres wide but is the most striking building in this pretty square. The house is rich in lines, curves and geometric shapes, many of which are provided by the ironwork on the balconies - all of which are different. Just about every inch of the building is covered in decorative detail, colour or ornament. I love the large windows and the circular feature on the uppermost floor. Rather incongruously, a bus stop stands right outside the house, juxtaposing the elegance of fin de siecle Brussels with the busy modern city and people waiting to go to work. The house was completely restored in 2010 and appears to be in excellent condition. What a wonderful place to live!

Maison de St. Cyr, Square Ambroix, 1902, Gustave Strauven

Art nouveau architecture can be found throughout Brussels, including many fine examples in the Ixelles district. The house in Rue du Lac designed by Leon Delune and built in 1904 is an especially beautiful example. In need of some restoration, it still shines with its enormous stepped, glazed facade, which follows the staircase. The glazing is covered in floral motifs as is the "P" shaped glazing on the main door. Delune was responsible for a number of art nouveau buildings in Ixelles in the streets surrounding the ponds, notably Rue de la Vallee and Avenue General de Gaulle.

Maison in Rue de Lac, 1904, Leon Délune.

Maison in Rue de Lac, 1904, Leon Délune

For me, no trip is complete without some quality cafe time, strong coffee and good cake being my not very secret and certainly not guilty pleasure. On this visit I discovered something very special - the Aksum Coffee House in Rue des Eperonniers. Housed in a small and beautiful art nouveau building which sports a huge vintage advertisement painted on the outside wall, this Ethiopian owned and run cafe sells great Ethiopian coffee and a rather marvellous lime cream pastry. Not to mention the pistachio crumble! The smell of coffee permeates the cafe and several types of bean and blend are on offer as is hot chocolate and speciality tea. Although tiny, the cafe packs customers in and also manages to stage interesting art exhibitions. At the time of my visit a series of works from Senegal were on show. A real find and a place to return to.

Aksum Coffee House, Rue des Eperonniers

Still on food, I had the possibly best vegetarian risotto of my life to date in the Bozar Brasserie in the Palais des Beaux Arts - the large Victor Horta designed cultural centre on Rue Baron Horta. A bit of a find - a Brussels restaurant with a really good vegetarian option, my dish was deliciously peppery with sweet potato, artichoke and other interesting vegetables - a cut above what passes in many cities as risotto and great for those of us not fond of meat. The dining room has been lovingly restored to what I assume resembles its original 1928 look with dark wood, steel, hat stands and period lighting and is now in the capable hands of David Martin - a local superstar chef (think Ottolenghi, Stein, etc). He also has a restaurant in Cambodia near Angkor Wat! The Palais itself has a world class programme of music, art and theatre and it is possible to sneak in during the day to view and even take pictures of the public areas.

The Generali Insurance Company stands just across the road from the Palais des Beaux Arts and after looking at it for a few minutes and feeling it to be familiar, I realised it is similar to the Generali building  in Jerusalem's Jaffa Street. The lobby door was ajar and I peeped in to discover the beautifully decorated ceiling pictured at the top of this post. Sporting mermaids, boats, a lion and striped decorative features it was a very lovely surprise. I can't seem to find any details about this building, so as usual any information will be most welcome!

Several European cities have managed to keep their grand shopping galleries from the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. In Brussels most visitors will find the opulent Galeries St. Hubert a short step from the Grand Place and filled with enticing, if expensive chocolatiers. Dating from 1847, the Galeries also has a great book shop specialising in art and architecture where many a happy hour (and Euro) could easily be spent.

Much as I like these Galeries, they are not quite my favourite - that accolade has to go to the Galerie Bortier in Rue de Madeleine. Opened one year after Galeries St. Hubert, this much less glitzy arcade with its wood panelled walls and glass roof is crammed full of second hand booksellers, antique print shops and a tiny shop selling old maps. It is a browsers paradise and another place where serious money could be spent! Rue de Madeleine has several contemporary art galleries, so after browsing the books, you can browse the art work too.

Galerie Bortier looking on to Rue de Madeleine

One of the best things about traveling is happening on something interesting just by chance. Well, I had one of those experiences in Brussels. Wandering around the centre of the city, I came across an exhibition called the Chocolat Show.  Housed in an old shop unit, it was a temporary exhibition of chocolate tins dating back over many decades. The tins were all from the collection of Yvette Dardenne, who apparently has over 56,000 of them in total! It was a step back into a more stylish time with tins designed to commemorate important events or to appeal to different markets. The collection includes items from Switzerland, Germany and France and even a couple of items from good old Cadbury's. The exhibition will now be closed but you can read more about Ms. Dardenne's obsession here.

Window display of Chocolat Show

You might also like Brussels Art Deco

You can see more pictures from Brussels here.